====== Week 4: Bio Dyes and Biofabrics / Cecilia Raspanti ====== {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:2.jpg?nolink&1200x356|2.jpg}} ===== CLASS ===== This week, Cecilia open our eyes to a new world of new more innovative and sustainable textile materials and ways to dye them, as a response of the negative impacts traditional techniques of fabricating textiles are having on the environment and therefore on the people working on it. ==== ASSIGNMENT ==== a) GROUP ASSIGNMENT: Make at least 2 kind of dyes and create 2 materials. ''**1. NATURAL DYEING**'' ''WHAT'' Dye natural fibers using mordants, natural pigments and modifiers. {{ :fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos.png?nolink&334x195 }} ''STEPS'' **1) SELECT NATURAL FIBERS:** Animal (Wool and Silk) and Vegetal (Cotton, Linen and Hemp) **2) WEIGHT DRY FIBERS: **Important for the proportions **3) CLEAN FIBERS**: Remove the oil with sodium carbonate and hot water **4) USE MORDANTS OF CHOICE:** In big pots with water on a heather / Never boil animal fibers! (80º max) **5) USE PIGMENTS OF CHOICE: **Clean the fibers from the mordants and put on another pot with the pigments and water. Safe water with pigments. **5) USE MODIFIERS OF CHOICE**: Clean the fibers from the pigments and put on another pot with the modifiers. **6) LET DRY AND ORGANIZE THE RESULTS** ***For more info follow the recipes for each pigment and mordant** **{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos-08.jpg?nolink&1003x211|ten_idos-08.jpg}}** **{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:3_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|3_copia.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:4_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|4_copia.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:5_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|5_copia.jpg}}** **{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:6_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|6_copia.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:7_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|7_copia.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:8_copia.jpg?nolink&335x300|8_copia.jpg}}** ''RESULTS'' {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos-01.jpg?nolink&350x293|ten_idos-01.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos-02.jpg?nolink&350x293|ten_idos-02.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos-03.jpg?nolink&350x293|ten_idos-03.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_cc_83idos-05_1.jpg?nolink&531x443|ten_cc_83idos-05_1.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_idos-04.jpg?nolink&531x443|ten_idos-04.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_cc_83idos-06_1.jpg?nolink&531x443|ten_cc_83idos-06_1.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:ten_cc_83idos-07_1.jpg?nolink&531x443|ten_cc_83idos-07_1.jpg}} **LEARN/PROBLEMS:** - The PH of the water can change the colors, is important to test it before and you can change it with soda. - Important to create a system to categorize the results (knots, labels, colors, etc) - The final color can vary a lot depending on the fiber, silk is usually brighter. ''**2. BACTERIA DYEING**'' ''WHAT'' Dye natural fabrics by letting the bacteria "janthinobacterium lividum" grow on them. Bacteria + Food (LB Broth, 25 gr x LT) + Incubator (24º) ''STEPS'' **1. USE LIVE BACTERIA:** Is important to have live bacteria on petris growing on advance. **2.STERILIZE** ** EVERYTHING****:** Put everything you want to use on a pressure cooker with water. Let it boil for 15 min. (Fabrics, petris, food) **3. PUT BACTERIA ON THE FABRIC:** Using an inoculation loop (with heat and alcohol), remove some bacteria from the original petri dish and put them on a petri dish with the fabric and food (LB Broth). **4. LET THE BACTERIA GROW: **Put the petri dish with the fabric on the incubator and let it stay for 3 days. **5. TAKE OUT THE FABRIC: **After the 3 days, remove the fabric from the petris and put it on the pressure cooker to kill the bacteria. Clean with water and it`s ready to use. {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bacteria1.jpg?nolink&1068x473|bacteria1.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bacteria2.jpg?nolink&356x300|bacteria2.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bacteria2b.jpg?nolink&356x300|bacteria2b.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bacteria3.jpg?nolink&356x300|bacteria3.jpg}} ''RESULTS'' {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bacteria4.jpg?nolink&1062x781|bacteria4.jpg}} **LEARN/PROBLEMS** - You can easily kill the bacteria if you don´t sterilize everything properly. - Is important to make more petri dish with bacteria every 3 days, so they don´t die. - For growing on a petri dish with textiles: LB Broth is the food. For growing on the petri with nothing else: Agar is the food. - Is possible to take the pigments out of the petri dish and mish it with alcohol to dye bigger pieces of fabric. **''3. KOMBUCHA '' ** ''WHAT/STEPS'' Learn how to grow kombucha and take some samples to dry them. We didn´t make kombucha from cero but we took some of the allready growing and put them to dry. It`s really smelly. It took about 7 days to get fully dry. We also put some food pigments on one sample. {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:kombucha1.jpg?nolink&356x300|kombucha1.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:kombucha2.jpg?nolink&356x300|kombucha2.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:kombucha3.jpg?nolink&356x300|kombucha3.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:kombucha4.jpg?nolink&1092x819}} **''4. BIOPLASTICS'' ** ''WHAT'' Create bioplastics and experiment using different kinds of mixes, colors, ways to mold, etc. Basic recipe: Gelatine (plasticizer) + Glycerol (make it soft) + Water . The different proportions will change the consistency of the material, turning it more hard, soft, flexible, etc. ''STEPS'' **1. DEFINE WHAT KIND OF MATERIAL YOU WANT:** Depending on this, you choose the proportions of ingredients. **2. WEIGHT: **Weight each ingredient **3. MIX ON THE HEAT:** Mix all the ingredients on a hot pot for around 3 min. **4. PUR THE MIX: **You can use a mold made of acrylic o wood. **5. LET IT DRY:** Let the mold dry, you can touch it after 1 hour, depending on the mix (more glicerine or more water = more time to dry), and turn it to the other side. **6. CHANGE FORM: **If you want to change the form by moving it, don´t wait until is fully dry. When it`s fully dry, you can laser cut it. {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bioplastico1.jpg?nolink&531x447|bioplastico1.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bioplastico2.jpg?nolink&531x448|bioplastico2.jpg}} ''RESULTS'' We try: - Put soap: It make it softer with a sponge texture - Adding textiles, acrylic, flowers and threads : Great appearance and change of the structure - Ussing agar insteat of gelatine: It works and is more transparent - Mixing 2 layers of colors - Different thicknesses - Laser cut: It works really well {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bioplasticos3.jpg?nolink&1062x796|bioplasticos3.jpg}} Cecilia Raspanti / Sofia Guridi / Fanny Trivero {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio6.jpg?nolink&356x300|bio6.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio7.jpg?nolink&356x300|bio7.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio8.jpg?nolink&356x300|bio8.jpg}} Fanny Trivero / Sofia Guridi / Fanny Trivero {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio5_1.jpg?nolink&355x300|bio5_1.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio9.jpg?nolink&356x300|bio9.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:bio10.jpg?nolink&356x300|bio10.jpg}} ---- b) PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS ''WHAT'' I wanted to experiment with form and how can you create 3d forms with bioplastic, without using 3d molds, and taking advantage of the shrinking. ''STEPS'' **1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT MIX:** For this, I use a low glycerin mix. **2. COOK** **3. PUR THE MIX:** Put the mix of a flat surface with the shape you want **4. ADD THREADS:** Add threads to the mix in different shapes **5. MOVE THE PIECE:** After 4 hour apróx, take the piece, move it and place it wherever you want on a 3d way. **6. WAIT UNTIL IS DRY** ''RESULTS'' ''A.'' {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio2.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio2.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio3.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio3.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio4.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio4.jpg}} ''B.'' {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio5.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio5.jpg}}{{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio6.jpg?nolink&404x340|mio6.jpg}} ''C.'' {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio7.jpg?nolink&800x600|mio7.jpg}} {{:fabricademy2017:students:sofiaguridi:bio:mio8.jpg?nolink&800x450|mio8.jpg}} - The bioplastic helps to gave shape to a piece of fabric without stitches or glue.